Fashion house Chanel stepped into Watches and Wonders 2024 with a tribute to its founder Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel. The Couture O'Clock capsule collection features timepieces inspired by Haute Couture, where the highlight was the J12 Automaton Caliber 6 housing the Chanel manufacture movement. The other novelties come in Chanel’s J12 and Pink Edition, along with a ‘Superleggera’ Edition, The Time of the Lion, and Première.
Couture O'Clock Collection
In the unique Couture O'Clock capsule collection, thimbles, pins, buttons, and scissors are turned into pieces of timekeeping. There are 20 timepieces in the collection that include wristwatches, buttons, rings, and long necklaces, among others.
Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion Collection
Chanel introduces the Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion collection inspired by the pincushion, a staple tool in dressmaking.
Embodying the essence of haute couture, the collection introduces timepieces in the form of a cuff, an elongated necklace, and a ring, crafted by Les Cadraniers De Genève, a workshop under the ownership of FP Journe. The watch case for the cuff and the necklace is 55mm and that of the ring is 40mm.
Limited to just five pieces, each watch boasts an 18K yellow gold case adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds, accompanied by a titanium caseback for durability. The dial features a quilted motif enhanced by 18K yellow gold pins adorned with cultured pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds, complemented by miniature pearls in 18K yellow gold. Encircling the dial are additional brilliant-cut diamonds and miniature pearls. Furthermore, the hands are made with 18K yellow gold set with a brilliant-cut diamond.
Powered by a high-precision quartz movement, the watch offers time-only function, with a water resistance of up to 30 metres.
Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Gabrielle Watch
The timepiece features a 29mm button on the front with the silhouette of Gabrielle Chanel in 18K yellow gold and onyx, concealing a black lacquer dial and an 18K yellow gold and diamond bezel. Crafted with 18K yellow gold and titanium with a sleek black coating, the watch case features an 18K yellow gold chain motif. The button itself is adorned with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds.
The watch is driven by a quartz movement with time-only function, and the water resistance is 30 metres. Complementing the timepiece is the satin-effect calfskin strap with an 18K yellow gold buckle set with diamonds.
Bobbin Cuff Couture
Taking inspiration from a spool of thread, this timepiece is crafted with 18K yellow gold and showcases a graphic design of interlocking lines interspersed with diamonds. There’s the dial adorned with baguette-cut diamonds concealed beneath an emerald-cut yellow sapphire, and is also made in 18K yellow gold.
This timepiece is also powered by quartz movement and offers water-resistance of up to 30 metres.
Safety Pin Long Necklace Couture
Taking cues from a safety pin and transforming into a long necklace and a timepiece, this novelty is adorned with snow-set diamonds. The dial, also set with diamonds, rests within the cavity of the safety pin. All elements are crafted with 18K yellow gold, including the hour and minute hands and the accompanying chain with an additional brilliant-cut centre diamond.
A limited edition of only 20 pieces, the same quartz movement powers this timepiece. Water resistance is also up to 30 metres.
Thimble Long Necklace Couture
This another long necklace timepiece from Chanel reimagines the traditional thimble. Crafted with 18K yellow gold and studded with snow-set diamonds, the thimble conceals an 18K white gold dial set with diamonds, complemented by 18K yellow gold hands and a diamond-set bezel.
The chain comes in 18K yellow gold, also set with diamonds, along with a brilliant-cut centre diamond. The same quartz movement drives the watch which is a limited edition of 20 pieces.
J12 Couture 33mm watch
The new J12 Couture 33mm watch is crafted from highly resistant white ceramic with black accents and a bezel adorned with baguette-cut diamonds, drawing inspiration from the iconic rue Cambon ateliers in Paris, featuring motifs such as toile à patron, sewing needles, scissors, and tape measure. The fixed bezel, made from steel with a black coating, is embellished with 46 baguette-cut diamonds.
On the dial, you can find the black sewing pattern motif complemented by hands shaped like scissors and needles, and enhanced by 12 baguette-cut diamonds acting as the hour markers. On the flip side, the sapphire crystal caseback bears the inscription "LIMITED TO 55."
The watch is driven by automatic Caliber 12.2 with a power reserve of about 50 hours
The watch is completed with a bracelet crafted from the same ceramic and steel with a black coating, secured by a triple-folding buckle. The water-resistance offered is up to 50 metres.
J12 Couture 38mm watch
On the lines of the 33mm J12 Couture watch, the 38mm is crafted from highly resistant black ceramic with matte black coated steel unidirectional rotating bezel, and is a limited edition piece. Accompanying the bezel is the black-varnished sapphire crystal ring adorned with a golden tape measure motif, and the black-lacquered dial boasts a golden sewing pattern motif. The time is indicated by scissors and needle-shaped hands, and there’s a date window at 4.30. The sapphire crystal caseback bears the inscription "LIMITED EDITION”.
The watch is powered by automatic Caliber 12.1 movement, with a reserve of about 70 hours. Completing the watch is a black ceramic bracelet with a steel triple-folding buckle. The water resistance offered is up to 200 metres.
J12 Couture 33mm watch
Designed on the same aesthetics of the at the 38mm J12 Couture watch, the J12 Couture 33mm boasts a white highly resistant ceramic and matte black-coated steel case and the steel caseback is inscribed with "LIMITED EDITION".
There’s the unidirectional bezel with the black tape measure motif. The dial is the same, only that it is white lacquered and the water resistance is also 200 metres. The difference lies in the movement. The 33mm is powered by a quartz movement. White ceramic bracelet completes the watch.
Première Charms Couture Watch
A reinterpretation of Chanel’s Première watch, the new Première Charms Couture Watch is adorned with charming details reminiscent of the world of haute couture. This limited edition timepiece is crafted from steel coated with 18K yellow gold.
The dial is black-lacquered and the steel caseback bears the inscription "LIMITED EDITION”. A standout feature of this watch is its steel chain bracelet, interlaced with a black leather strap, reminiscent of the classic CHANEL bag chain, and adorned with charms resembling a spool of thread, a thimble, and a figure of Mademoiselle, all coated with 18K yellow gold and black lacquered.
The time-only function of the watch is powered by a quartz movement. The water-resistance offered is up to 30 metres.
Première Ruban Couture Watch
This limited-edition timepiece features a measuring tape motif which is printed on the double-wrapped black and gold leather strap. The case, crafted from titanium and 18K yellow gold, is paired with a black-lacquered dial and a titanium caseback bearing the inscription "LIMITED EDITION”.
A charm of a figurine of Mademoiselle, made from 18K yellow gold and black lacquer, and set with a diamond, complements the theme of the collection. The strap is further accentuated by golden leather trim and lining, secured with an 18K yellow gold ardillon buckle.
Quartz movement powers the watch, and the water resistance is up to 30 metres.
BOY.FRIEND Couture Watch
The BOY·FRIEND watch showcases the iconic Chanel tweed jacket motif on its dial, accentuated by 8 brilliant-cut diamonds resembling buttons. The dial, with its black-lacquered finish, is intricately printed with gold- and silver-powdered tweed jacket patterns, while the bezel is adorned with an integrated 18K yellow gold chain, reminiscent of the hem chain found in Chanel jackets.
The black-coated steel caseback bears the "LIMITED EDITION" inscription. The crown, also made of black-coated steel, features a black spinel cabochon. Powered by quartz movement, the timepiece comes with an interchangeable black grosgrain ribbon pattern calfskin leather strap, accented with patent black leather trim and golden leather lining, secured with a black-coated steel ardillon buckle
Code Coco Couture watch
The last in the Couture O'Clock capsule collection is the Code Coco Couture watch featuring a black and gold leather strap adorned with motifs of a thimble, spool of thread, and scissors. The watch boasts two black lacquer dials, one of which is elegantly set with a princess-cut diamond.
The watch is housed within a black-coated steel case complemented by a black-coated steel bezel and a steel caseback engraved with "LIMITED EDITION".
Enhancing its allure, the watch features a Mademoiselle turnlock in black-coated steel, adding a signature CHANEL touch. The strap is crafted from golden and black calfskin leather, intricately printed with couture motifs and accented with golden leather trim and lining.
Technical specifications include a high precision quartz movement for accurate timekeeping functions of hours and minutes. The watch offers a water resistance of up to 30 metres, ensuring durability and reliability. Its dimensions measure 39.3x25.0x8.8mm, and it is adorned with a princess-cut diamond weighing approximately 0.10 carats.
Musical Clock Couture Workshop
Paying homage to Mademoiselle's fondness for "My Woman" by Al Bowlly, the studio creates a choreography of couture busts. The intricate design features a glass dome encapsulating a faceted onyx stone bordered with 18K yellow gold and adorned with 36 diamonds, while a chandelier crafted from 18K yellow gold, accented with black coating, and embellished with 26 pear-cut diamonds, hangs within.
Five busts, fashioned from natural aluminum ceramic and accented with black leather ribbons, each bear an 18K yellow gold brooch set with diamonds. Supported by a steel tripod coated in black and featuring an 18K yellow gold handle, these busts are complemented by a ribbon in natural aluminum ceramic, printed with 24-hour and minute indexes in black lacquer, at the base of the dome.
A finely crafted pearl and support in 18K yellow gold with black coating and a baguette-cut diamond indicator helps read the time. Next to the ribbon at the base, a marquetry comprising 245 pieces of onyx and encircled by 18K yellow gold, is set with diamonds and supported by 18K yellow gold feet.
This unique creation houses a manual-winding movement with a power reserve of approximately seven days, providing hours and minutes functions. The winding key, crafted from 18K yellow gold and set with diamonds, hangs from a long necklace also fashioned from 18K yellow gold and adorned with diamonds.
Bust Long Necklace Couture
Crafted in 18K yellow gold and adorned with snow-set diamonds, a couture bust hangs elegantly from an 18K yellow gold chain, and conceals a black lacquer dial within the waist of the dummy. It is further complemented by 18K yellow gold hands. Each couture bust is accentuated with black-lacquered trims. The chain is also studded with small diamonds with a brilliant-cut centre diamond.
A limited edition of 20 pieces, this long necklace couture timepiece is driven by the quartz movement. The water resistance is 30 metres.
J12 White Star Couture watch
The J12 White Star Couture watch is a limited edition of 12 pieces, crafted in black coated steel and adorned with baguette-cut white ceramics and baguette-cut diamonds.
The ceramic pieces grace the fixed bezel, the dial, and the bracelet. The baguette diamonds are placed at the edges conforming the symmetry of the ceramics. A diamond also adorns the crown. The sapphire crystal caseback displays the "LIMITED TO 12" inscription.
Powering this 38mm timepiece is the automatic Caliber 12.1 movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC, with a black coating and black oscillating weight set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds. The power reserve of this watch is about 70 hours abd the water resistance is up to 50 metres.
J12 Automaton Caliber 6 watch
The Chanel J12 Automaton Caliber 6 boasts a robust 38mm black ceramic case with a matte finish and topped by a sapphire crystal. The caseband features a subtle chamfer, marking a first for J12 models. Adorning the black-treated steel bezel are 48 baguette-cut diamonds, while the black ADLC crown is studded with a brilliant-cut diamond.
The dial showcases Chanel’s iconic motifs, including tweed textures, camellia flowers, and quilted patterns, featuring Coco Chanel amidst her renowned designs. Activating the automaton mechanism, located at 8 o’clock, brings the dial to life, with Gabrielle Chanel depicted crafting attire in the Mademoiselle Privé haute couture workshop. This movement is Chanel’s inaugural Automaton movement, the manual-wound Caliber 6, crafted in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and beating at 4Hz with a power reserve of about 72 hours.
The skeletonised architecture of Caliber 6, derived from Caliber 1 introduced in 2016, is revealed through the sapphire caseback. Encircling the caseback's sapphire crystal window is an 18k white gold frame, intricately engraved with customary markings. Water resistance is rated at 50 metres.
Thee limited edition of 100, the watch comes flanked with a matching black ceramic bracelet with chamfered links, secured by a triple-folding clasp.
Mademoiselle J12 Couture watch
The Mademoiselle J12 Couture watch features the silhouette of Mademoiselle in a monochrome suit, set against a backdrop of highly resistant black ceramic and steel with a black coating. The bezel is adorned with 46 baguette-cut diamonds. Another variation of this watch comes with a bezel set with matte black-coated steel.
On the reverse side, a continuously moving disk brings to life golden motifs inspired by safety pins and couture dummies. The crown, crafted from steel with a black coating, features a single diamond. The caseback features the inscription "LIMITED TO 55”.
Driven by automatic Caliber 12.1, this timepiece offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The water resistance is up to 50 metres. Completing the 38mm watch is a black highly resistant ceramic bracelet and a steel triple-folding buckle.
J12 Diamond Tourbillon Caliber 5
The J12 Diamond Tourbillon watch made its debut in 2022 and was hailed as a technical and aesthetic masterpiece by the brand. Available in two ceramic variations - matte black highly resistant ceramic case and steel and white highly resistant ceramic case.
The timepiece is powered by the in-house Caliber 5 and introduces its inaugural Flying Tourbillon movement. The intricately exposed mechanism is visible from both the front and back, boasting a luxurious finish featuring a majestic lion's head, emblematic of the Chanel Haute Horlogerie Manufacture. The tourbillon cage, adorned with one diamond and 29 rubies, offers water resistance up to 50 metres.
J12 Caliber 12.1 and J12 Caliber 12.2
The brand included two in-house movements in its novelties, J12 Caliber 12.1 and J12 Caliber 12.2.
The J12 Caliber 12.1 watch is crafted in either black or white ceramic, this timepiece features a bezel adorned with 50 diamonds and a dial embellished with 12 diamonds. The automatic Caliber 12.1 movement can be seen through a transparent sapphire caseback, revealing intricate decorations and a circular oscillating weight, a hallmark of Chanel Watchmaking. The manufacture movement comes with a chronometer certification from the COSC and offers a power reserve of 70 hours. Completing the watch is a ceramic bracelet with a steel triple-folding buckle.
The other, J12 Caliber 12.2 is crafted at the Swiss Kenissi Manufacture, a joint venture with Chanel. The brand’s signature round oscillating weight can be seen through the sapphire casebac and the movement boasts a power reserve of 50 hours.
The watch is offered in black or white highly resistant ceramic variants studded with diamonds. The first iteration, available in black or white ceramic, features diamonds on the lacquered dial. The second variant in white ceramic has diamonds set against a white mother-of-pearl dial. Finally, the third rendition, offered in black or white ceramic, boasts diamonds on a lacquered dial and on the steel bezel.
Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Edition Intense Black
Crafted especially for men, Chanel unveils a newMonsieur de Chanel Superleggera Edition Intense Black, drawing inspiration from the sleek aesthetics of racing cars.
The 42mm timepiece is crafted from matte black highly resistant ceramic and steel. Taking cues from racing car speedometers, the open-worked dial offers a glimpse of the movement within. The dial is further adorned with guilloché decoration.
Powering the watch is the hand-wound Calibre 1, movement combines a jumping hour and retrograde minutes display spanning a 240-degree arch, operating at a frequency of 4Hz and providing a 72-hour power reserve from twin barrels. The movement's black finish complements the watch's monochromatic aesthetic, visible through the caseback.
Limited to just 100 pieces, the watch is presented on a textured nylon strap with a black calf leather lining and a steel triple folding clasp.
Pink Edition
The J12 X-Ray Pink Edition Watch, a limited edition of 12 pieces, features a pink sapphire crystal and an 18k beige gold case. Its fixed bezel is adorned with 46 baguette-cut pink sapphires, while the sapphire crystal dial showcases an additional 12 baguette-cut pink sapphires.
Similarly, the J12 Pink Edition Watch, limited to 55 pieces, is crafted in white highly resistant ceramic and an 18k beige gold. The fixed bezel sparkles with 46 baguette-cut pink sapphires, complemented by a white dial featuring 12 baguette-cut pink sapphires.
In the BOY.FRIEND collection, the Skeleton X-Ray Pink Edition Watch, also limited to 55 pieces, features a pink sapphire crystal case and bezel. The 18k beige gold crown is embellished with 5 baguette-cut pink sapphires, while the pink quilted pattern calfskin leather strap, lined with gold, is secured by an 18k beige gold triple-folding buckle.
The BOY.FRIEND Skeleton Pink Edition Watch, another limited edition of 55 pieces, showcases a refined 18k beige gold case, featuring a bezel set with 38 baguette-cut pink sapphires. Its pink quilted pattern calfskin strap, accented with gold lining, is adorned with 23 baguette-cut pink sapphires and fastened with the same 18k beige gold buckle.
The Time of the Lion
Paying tribute to Gabrielle Chanel's star sign, the brand has crafted timepieces in the figurine of a lion. The pieces include a cuff and a long necklace crafted in 18K yellow gold and adorned with diamonds and onyx. Both the timepieces are limited editions of 10 and powered by a quartz movement with time-only function.
Première
Since its debut in 1987, the Première watch has remained a standout in for Chanel. The timepiece draws inspiration from the iconic octagonal stopper of the N°5 perfume bottle for its black lacquer dial and adopts the leather interlaced chain motif from the classic quilted handbag for its bracelet.
There are two new limited editions: the Première Cuff watch and the Première Sautoir-Belt watch. The models feature a steel case coated with 18K yellow gold. The steel caseback, also coated with 18K yellow gold bears the inscription "LIMITED EDITION". The watches are powered by quartz movement.
Images: Courtesy Brand